Cuisine Undercover- Poppies Thai-2.5 stars

However discreet seems the right word to describe Poppies Thai, which, despite it’s Bourke St location across the road from the stadium, still goes largely unnoticed by many.

Perhaps it’s because many still associate this strip as the desolate construction zone it once was, perhaps it’s the lack of “shopfront”, with Poppies tucked behind dark glass windows in the unremarkable ground floor of the Watergate building.  And perhaps it’s because The Nixon down the road and Gloria Jeans on the corner have sparked into life and are outshining this solid little performer in between them. But whatever it is, it is very easy to walk past Poppies Thai and not even notice it’s there.

Which is a shame really because, despite its very urban location, inside, Poppies offers a genuine slice of Thailand. As hard as it is to gaze out on the concrete slabs of the stadium car park and feel the gentle breeze of a hot Thai evening wash over you, a quick glance at the plastic drinks menu offering Chang beer helps. Ahhh Chang! For the uninitiated, it’s an extra strong beer that is the only way to start the day when holidaying in my beloved Thailand.

Unfortunately, the other thing that evokes a sense of Thailand is the service, which is consistently lackadaisical and downright appalling when dining with big groups – even when ordering ahead. And, while slow, inconsistent service may be fine while downing Chang beers on the beach, it’s not so cool when you need to be back at work by 2pm.

However, if you’ve got the time or are prepared to risk it, do so. The food is worth it. Poppies is no pioneer. It is part of a chain of established Thai restaurants scattered across Melbourne so its menu is tried and tested. The Pumpkin Fritters deep fried in coconut batter are a stand out starter, the sweet softness of pumpkin marrying perfectly with the crisp coconut batter and set off nicely with a sweet chilli sauce. The bite-sized fish cakes are also nice and firm with a touch or rubberiness associated with the standard street food.

I know it’s standard, but I also like a Thai restaurant that does roti and satay sauce as a side dish. And I know it’s wrong, but I can never resist ordering it. The roti here is light and thin, it dries out a tad easily but the satay sauce is chunky with just a touch of lime giving it the essential lift. There’s never enough of it.

The curries, I’m assuming, are what most would gravitate towards and, again, they’re exceptionally reliable. Lots of sauce, the appropriate Thai vegetables, real Thai basil – and not so much meat. Again – very much the case when ordering curries in Thailand.

The real winner here, however, is a dish I only discovered on my most recent trip to Thailand and haven’t stopped making at home ever since - the ridiculously simple yet SO GOOD if done right, Larb Gai.

I’m sure I’m not doing it justice by describing it as “minced chicken and Thai stuff”, but that’s really what it is. Chicken (the dish is also often made with minced pork) is fried quickly in fish sauce, with condiments such as chilli, coriander, lime juice, onion and toasted rice powder either mixed through right at the end of thrown on top fresh – all served up on a bed or lettuce leaves you can use to scoop up the delightfully refreshing meal with your hands!

You really have to put down the Chang and order a dry Riesling to set it off right, however beer will suffice as it always does
in Thailand.

As I’m polishing off this dish however, it’s usually when I notice the people at the other end of my table are just being given their starter and I’m once again reminded of the pitfalls of this establishment.

Dining with smaller groups (i.e. groups of two), it’s not so much of an issue. But, with the restaurant now in such easy reach of all the large corporations moving in around it, it’s time it stepped up if it wants to service the work crowd.

And a word of warning if you do duck in for lunch - watch the Chang intake and remember a beer for breakfast is only acceptable if holidaying at least a five-hour flight from home!