Cuisine Undercover - Nuevo 37 - 3 stars

I almost felt guilt, crossing the river – and I’m not just talking Yarra’s Edge.

That’s right, I’m talking about the competition – South Wharf. I mean, it’s not as though the restaurants are exactly full to overflowing in Docklands. Should I really be reviewing anything in this neighbouring precinct?

But, to those who live and work here, it’s all local. Competition may exist between a bunch of developers and government bureaucrats, but let’s face it, for Yarra’s Edge, parts of Victoria Harbour and around 6500 ANZ employees, South Wharf is more a part of their landscape than Harbour Town.

Besides, Docklands has nothing to worry about because, frankly, it ain’t much yet. Yes I know it’s not yet finished, but you’d have thought if they’d learned one thing from Docklands it might be not to market a place as a finished product until the job is done. Otherwise, within five minutes of arrival you’re disappointed. And it was in this frame of mind that I ventured past the barren, empty shopfronts and into the cavernous space of Nuevo 37.

Part of the Hilton complex, Nuevo 37 is I guess what you’d call “a drawcard” restaurant – large and flashy, an award winning wine list (already!) and an executive chef trained under the legendary Ramon Freixa in Barcelona.  Claiming to offer the finest produce and Spanish-inspired “Australian” dishes, the atmosphere is impressive, despite the concrete jungle upon which it looks and the fact that only three of its several tables are occupied.

The service is friendly and very quick, but here’s the thing. I don’t believe I’m on my own when I admit to not knowing as much as I should about Spanish wines – and sherries in particular. So when I asked for some help with a sherry to accompany my croquettes of cured ham and roasted chicken, I expected a little more than, “Um, oh, this one is quite popular …”

Well of course it would be, it was the first on the list and among the cheapest. Not what I meant. I guess the sommelier doesn’t work the lunch shift.

The croquettes however are good and stodgy, just like you’d find in a San Sebastian pintxos bar and my spirits lift. The sherry, despite being cheap and popular, helps to cut through the rich, gamey stodge and I’m very glad I still have it on hand when my next dish arrives.

The tagliatelle with braised “David Blackmore” wagyu and sautéed mushrooms is so decadently rich, I feel as though I should be celebrating a momentous occasion on a hot date as opposed to grabbing a quick business lunch. Convinced I won’t be able to do dessert, my mind is changed by an intriguing tasting dish of spiced raspberry sorbet, chocolate bread and banana crumble.

Each morsel is delectable, offering a sweet and savoury contrast I’d normally acquaint with Asian food. The spice of the sorbet makes it incredibly sharp, the chocolate dollop resting on toast is dusted with a rock salt and the warm, soft banana is coated in a remarkable crumble of nuts I expect to be sweet but is surprisingly savoury. So unusual yet so rewarding.

Nuevo 37 is certainly trying, but honestly, it could try a bit harder. The sherry advice or lack thereof aside, a side dish of a delicious-looking olive and walnut bread arrived after my tapas, so it couldn’t really be enjoyed as bread should be. I admit these are minor things, but when you’re one of only three customers, in one of only three dining establishments in the precinct, you expect a little bit of something special. Particularly when there’s so much more to choose from just across the river …