Cuisine Undercover- Platform 28- 3.5 stars

Cuisine Undercover- Platform 28- 3.5 stars

Poor old Justin Madden an come across as a bit of a bumbling fool at times – all long legs, lankiness and leaked documents. But I reckon he’s got balls.

It’s not like those well-heeled wowsers of Docklands don’t know how to put up a fight. They have all the nice things they need, and now their job is to stop others from having them. Perhaps they fear the better Docklands becomes, the more riff-raff it will attract. Best keep it a half-finished concrete jungle, where everything has to close at five – that way they can enjoy their water views, with their own ilk, in silence.

Platform 28, the new bar/nightclub breathing a bit of life into the otherwise bureaucracy-laden Goods Shed nearly fell foul of this mob, as did another great venue that’s made use of an historic space – The Woolshed on Central Pier. But, let me tell you, it is WONDERFUL walking into a venue with genuine character and real history in Docklands – just as it is in Melbourne proper when stumbling across venues like MOO (the old Money Order Office) or The Trust. It’s what Melbourne’s known for and often what Docklands is criticised for lacking, in amongst all its big shiny new spaces.

Anyway – the election is over and so is this rant. How about the food, drinks and atmosphere? Look, the venue is fabulous, and frankly, why should bureaucrats be the only one with access to this wonderfully restored building? Exposed beams, brick and pylons, and it’s a nice touch to still be able to see the painted “28” on a brick wall.

The menu is very well put together. While I may be always calling for more pubs and associated grub in Docklands, there are a few now doing an exceptional job, so Platform 28’s menu couldn’t risk being too standard.  I think it strikes the right balance between originality and safety – there’s enough for the foodies without alienating the footy crowd.

I went with the Dukkah-encrusted barramundi fillet on roquette with olives and a chilli and coriander crème fraiche. The generous and juicy fillet was perfectly coated, providing a crisp and flavoursome crunch which complemented, and not overpowered, the fish. I’m not sure the equally generous serving of plump green olives was entirely necessary, but the crème fraiche was divine.

I would have liked to have tried more, with a delicious selection of starters including Greek lamb meatballs, pork, leek and sage chipolatas and salt and schezuan pepper squid (See? Solid, yet original), but it was a quick visit. The sticky-date pudding and lemon tarts also sadly had to go untasted.

The wine of course, did not, and on a warmish day the Leo Buring Riesling provided the right amount of fresh bite. There’s an impressive selection of beers on tap and bottled. The wine list has strong performers – not outstanding, but all quality average-priced wines – largely from SA.

And on a sunny day, lots of happy business-people taking advantage of the sheltered alfresco area – enjoying Docklands – and Melbourne – as it was meant to be enjoyed.

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