Cuisine Undercover - Medici - 3 Stars

 

It breaks my heart to say it but there is no doubt about it. Docklands crumbles under pressure.

It’s an unfortunate irony that a place filled with such large-scale places and built for large events, is still hosting so few of them that it struggles to respond adequately when one actually comes along. That just when it needs to shine the most – when thousands of potential first-time visitors are flooding in – it freezes up like an unsophisticated teenager who’s got all the right clothes, but can’t quite work out how to carry them off.

Take the recent George Michael concert for example. A beautiful and balmy late summer’s evening and Docklands should have been sparkling. Unfortunately, the sweat and tears from a hundred frazzled restaurateurs somewhat dampened the shine.

I’d done the right thing and tried to book a table at The Woolshed, only to be told they weren’t taking bookings but we’d have no problem ordering at the bar.

On arrival we found the place is complete disarray with queues stretching for miles and word circulating that once you hit the front, you’d be told it was the drinks queue and be sent elsewhere to line up for food. A polite question to the manager as to which queue to join was met with a terse response – they were no longer taking orders, with more than 350 meals backed up. As though it was my fault.

Granted, he was sweeping up a broken glass at the time and clearly flustered by the crowd but come on Woolshed – isn’t this why you fought so long and hard to open?

Next we tried Va Bene – also full, but coping slightly better, with a waiter stationed at the door informing people there were no tables and no take-away orders being taken for at least 30 minutes. At least we knew where
we stood.

Moving over to NewQuay we tried Achelya, thinking cheap Turkish located a step back from the water may have been overlooked by the crowds. There were empty tables but clearly more full than normal, with a harried manager shouting out from the kitchen, “No more! No more!”

Next, The Lounge. We went straight to the front desk where we were met with an apologetic smile and shake of the head.

Hungry, but worse – sober – we moved on. How could one be in such a predicament in the heart of Docklands?

And then we saw him (is he ever not there?), moving faster than we’d ever seen, seating customers, bringing out meals, still smiling, still charming. I’m talking of course, of Lee Moussi of Café Medici. It looked full to overflowing but still, we were ushered to a table which he cleared himself and instead of “No more! No more” he cried “No trouble! No trouble!”

This week’s column is dedicated to Medici – an old Docklands staple many of us have no doubt grown to love due to its reliability, longevity and lovely Italian owner whom, on quieter days, can be found out front drinking coffee with acquaintances, evoking a calming air of old Italy.

Marketing itself as “family friendly and affordable”, it’s not the sleekest joint on the block and others may serve finer food but, on this occasion, Medici proved it was a cut above – offering something the majority weren’t and I’m not just talking about a table – I’m talking about grace under pressure.

Our food appeared out of order but the drinks arrived quickly which was clearly the priority. A trio of dips – basic but substantial, a gourmet pizza, slightly oily but good, chunky toppings of salami, fetta, fresh tomato and capsicum. And an entre of chilli scallops in a pernod, leek and cream sauce boasting a surprising number of scallops and while sounding almost exotic, was actually very comforting with lots of sauce left over to be mopped up with the bread.

Yes, it’s family friendly, affordable and may lack the pizzazz of others nearby. But it’s learnt how to deal with crowds and could teach the others, particularly the newcomers, a vital thing or two. For if we can’t perform when we’re on show – who’s going to bother coming back?

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