Cuisine Undercover - Bhoj - 3.75 Stars

 

Overall ranking:  3.75 stars

I consider myself an honorary Indian, by virtue of the fact I once lived in Brunswick – almost Coburg in fact, which only enhances my credibility.

When your local milk and bread stop doubles as the Bollywood video joint and the only flour on offer is made from chick-peas – you can’t help but acquire a taste for chapattis and bhaji. I’ve also been to India – although Coburg was much more like the real thing.

So what better venue to launch my restaurant reviewing career than Bhoj of Docklands – recipient of numerous foodie accolades, yet a restaurant still largely unheard of by many of the visitors I drag through Docklands.

I’m yet to tire of the looks on their faces when it dawns on them there’s no bain marie full of various shades or orange, and the food won’t be served into plastic take-way containers.

In fact, the décor is the first indication that Bhoj is clearly a cut above your six-buck a curry take-out joint (well, second, the first being you are actually in Docklands!). Overlooking the waterfront promenade, the interior of Bhoj is decked out with intricately carved wooden tables, some fabulous carved artwork and old Indian doors doubling as wall art.

If I weren’t such an upstanding citizen, I’d have long ago pocketed a set of the artfully designed cutlery with their coppery ends twisted into little curls …*

Knowing my Indian, I can’t at first resist from balking at the prices – the meat curries start at around $20 and wouldn’t even fill half a plastic take-out dish, but when you sample the quality of the meat and the delicate blend of spices – none of which is swimming in that tell-tale slick of oil that appears to be a standard accompaniment of northern suburbs Indian – you start to appreciate the value.

No grey, slimy chicken bits here, doused in ghee and cream. Only tender, bite-sized pieces of fillet, marinated to perfection so that even the dry dishes are moist and full of flavour. You must try the Mulai Chicken Kali Mirch Kebab – chicken tenderloin marinated in yoghurt, crushed black pepper, lemon juice and coriander roots, enriched with cheese and finished off in the clay oven. Don’t ask me to explain the cheese bit, but it works!

Another stand out is the garlic prawns – another dry dish but consisting of large, juicy morsels with a touch of the tandoor flavour providing the perfect lift to the fresh garlic.

You can find all your standard curries here, Kormas, Vindaloos and Madras, but thankfully Bhoj also represents some of the culinary diversity of India itself – try some of the dishes more reflective of the delicate flavours of the south – the Murg Dolchi Golmirch – chicken cooked in green onions, peppercorns, cashew nuts, coconut and tamarind, being a stand out.

So while the prices aren’t exactly Indian, they still represent darn fine value in Docklands. And I’ll tell you one thing – you won’t find a wine list complete with food matching recommendations in those joints on Sydney Road. 

Bhoj is at 54 NewQuay Promenade.  Ph: 9600 0865.

* In no way is the author encouraging, recommending or advocating stealing!

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