Cuisine Undercover - Oscar’s Table 4.5 Stars

A welcome addition to Docklands …

Sometimes, when you love something very much, you place higher expectations on it than you would something you barely care about.

I’m the first to admit I can be this way about Docklands. The minor transgressions or disappointments cut deep – but a good experience at Docklands is like basking in the brightest of sunshine, the kind that leaves you warm and glowing with memories that linger for days. The kind that rights all wrongs.

Oscar’s Table did this for me – truth be told, some girlfriends, some wine and some sunshine also played a big part. But this new tapas-style restaurant with its fabulous menu and wonderful service certainly set and nurtured the scene.

Located in NewQuay, the space is barely recognisable as the former home to Liquid. A slick refurb has added warmth and a European touch inside, while the outside can be enjoyed in all conditions, with clear weather protection keeping the elements out while letting the views in.

Offering breakfast, lunch or dinner – I believe Oscar’s Table will become known for its “share plates”. They are perfect for groups and/or long lunches.

We started with a small selection and then just kept ordering, until we’d finally tried all of the below:

Pork empanades with chipotle mayo ($9);

Son-in-law eggs with tamarind and chilli caramel, dried prawn and crisp leek ($9, and I’m salivating again just writing that one);

Croquettes ($8);

Salt and pepper calamari with aioli and lemon ($11);

Ceviche of market fish with coconut and paprika crisps ($14);

Grilled prawns with chorizo, roasted peppers and sweet sherry ($16); and the real winner

The perhaps-inappropriately-named chicken ribs, with lemongrass, chilli and shallots ($10). These were nothing like what you’d imagine chicken “ribs” to be (you’ve got to admit – they don’t sound too meaty or appetising) but “Oh. My. God!” Chunky meat and a delicious marinade that made the tongue sing. They’re a must.

This column doesn’t have enough space to go through each dish in detail, but let me just say that all were cooked to near perfection and bursting with flavour when they should have been, yet had subtle balance where required. Touches such as the paprika crisps added intrigue and texture and no dish, even those of the deep fried variety, suffered from too much oil.

The wine list was refreshingly affordable, a bit heavy on the sauvignon blanc, with bubbles, riesling and pinot gris also outnumbering the lone chardonnay option – but those are the styles that better suit the food. The reds include some Spanish styles, including a rioja – which is a style I’m quite fond of and would recommend as safe for red lovers to try.

With just one lunch, Oscar’s Table revived my love of Docklands and I’m already planning my return with a much larger group. I want to show as many people as I can what my beloved Docklands is capable of.

Summer-time is the time to do it people – get down to Docklands and witness this sometimes (admittedly) still gawky “teen”, taking increasingly assured steps towards playful sophistication – with no doubts as to how to entertain a crowd.

Location:
50 NewQuay Promenade